The spot of a pit smoker outside the storefront signaled it was time to find parking. The blue smoke billowing and the smell of hickory hinted we were getting warmer.
We went barbecue exploring, my friend and I, with a stack of napkins and a bottle of hand sanitizer at the ready.
Texas BBQ has in the last three years become something of a curiosity in Brazil. I’ve been to many smokehouses in Sao Paulo, the largest Brazilian city. None of them made me feel at home, though. One fine day, I heard that in a small town not far away, there was this place that apparently would have all the elements that we were looking for.
The goal was to hit this unlikely BBQ joint in Brazil.
The goal was to sample their brisket, ribs and burgers.
A friend said it was foolish to try it. That friend was not invited on this day trip to Santa Rita do Sapucai, in Minas Gerais state.
I once stood in line for four hours at Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Texas, for its famous brisket. Two days later, I lined up for nearly two hours at La Barbecue and nearly fainted under the Texas heat because I forgot to drink water that morning.
Joining me on this hunt, though, was Brenda Garcia, who once hit about 10 barbecue places in four different American states in one day.
Brenda gets me. For us, smoked meat is just part of the experience. Like bourbon, barbecue is about heritage.
Barbecue is the most profound of food, the most visceral, the most intimate. It’s eating with your hands and often in large gatherings with close friends and family. For a Texan living abroad, barbecue is the cure for homesickness.
The memory of your best barbecue is heightened because your fingers are fragranced with mesquite smoke hours after the meal. Soap doesn’t wash it away easily.
It was good to arrive long before opening. This town has a really cool vibe itself. The smokehouse has an amazing ambience.
The Lone Star flag on the wall and the twangy country music inside made us feel very comfortable.
Oh boy, we loved this place. Really felt like home, better: home sweet home.
Brenda liked the meaty, chewy bite of the beef ribs. The meat was fall-off-the bone tender. “The texture is what I want and expect in a rib,” she said.
The quality was consistent. The bacon, cured in-house, came in thick slabs, satisfyingly salty. Burgers were nicely layered with different textures, like an unusual one piled with some fried Brazilian cheese, bacon and a thick smoked patty. Ever the barbecue purist, Brenda didn’t go for that one. On the other hand, I went crazy for it. Loved it!
The pulled-pork sandwich was the exception. We suspect the pork wasn’t pulled at the last minute, so the smoked meat dried out.
There was one thing left to be done before Brenda took a bite. The pulled-pork sandwich was topped with a mound of slaw. “This is Memphis style. It brings that crunchy, cool element, the contrast you want with your juicy, savory meat.”
The brisket was seasoned with just salt and pepper. “Really good!”. Salt keeps the meat from drying out. Brazilians usually make the mistake of using too much garlic powder or paprika in a dry rub, which dries out the brisket.
Brenda loved the side of jalapeno topped mac and cheese. “Tastes like real home cooking. Really good. Nicely seasoned.”
Finally, we both thought this was easily the best brisket we’ve had in Brazil.
